Anyone buying silk soon comes across an abbreviation: mm, momme. It is how the silk world states the weight of a fabric, and choosing it well makes the difference between a garment that falls as it should and one that disappoints. Here is how to read it.
What momme is
Momme is a unit of weight of Japanese origin used for silk. In practice: 1 momme equals about 4.3 grams per square metre. The higher the number, the heavier and fuller the fabric.
| Momme | Approximate weight |
|---|---|
| 5 mm | about 22 g/m² |
| 8 mm | about 34 g/m² |
| 12 mm | about 52 g/m² |
| 14 mm | about 60 g/m² |
| 16 mm | about 69 g/m² |
| 17.5 mm | about 75 g/m² |
| 19 mm | about 82 g/m² |
| 22 mm | about 95 g/m² |
| 30 mm | about 129 g/m² |
| 40 mm | about 172 g/m² |
From 5 to over 40 momme: the weight is chosen on the project
Our silk range covers very different weights: from ultra-light articles of around 5 momme up to very full-bodied silks of over 40 momme. In between are dozens of articles across chiffon, georgette, crepe de chine, twill, satins and crepe satin.
That is why the right weight is not chosen from a table. We agree it with each client according to the design vision of the collection, meaning how the garment should move and drape, and its strategy: positioning, type of product and retail price. Sometimes the best choice is a different weight from the one you had in mind at the start.
Which weight for which garment
- Up to 12 mm (chiffon, georgette, light habotai): sheer effects, light blouses, linings, weightless scarves.
- 12–16 mm (crepe de chine, light twill): scarves, shirts, fluid dresses.
- 16–19 mm (satin, full-bodied twill): statement shirts, dresses, large-format scarves.
- 19–30 mm (heavy satin, crepe satin): structured dresses, trousers, garments where silk needs body.
- Over 30 mm: very full-bodied silks, for garments with strong structure and a rich drape.
These are starting points: weave, yarn twist and finishing change the result considerably at the same weight.
Silk twill: 14 or 17.5 momme?
It is the question we are asked most often, because these are the two silk twill weights we keep in stock.
- 14 momme twill: light, soft, knots well. It is the classic scarf and renders the fine details of high-definition digital printing at their best.
- 17.5 momme twill: fuller, with a richer drape. Ideal for large-format scarves, stoles and shirts, and it handles double-face printing very well.
Weight changes with processing
Some finishes change the final weight. Sand washing, for example, removes a small amount of material: so when a client asks us for a precise final weight, we measure it on a trial and choose the starting base accordingly.
Want to feel it?
Silk satin, stretch satin and 14 and 17.5 momme silk twill are available in stock. For all other weights, from 5 to over 40 momme, we work to order and choose the right article for your project together. If you want to compare several weights before deciding, ask us for samples from the Contact page.